Cabra offers good quality Peruvian cuisine in a rather unconvincing atmosphere.
It’s been a long time since I’ve eaten Peruvian food, even though I’m an unconditional ceviche fan. As I was preparing for this trip to Chicago and putting together my short list of restaurants based on various sources, I spotted Cabra, a Peruvian restaurant located in the Hoxton hotel, with a rooftop. After all, why not… opportunity being the thief, I’ll let myself be tempted.
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The concept
Nothing special to say, it’s a Peruvian restaurant.
The setting
The restaurant is located on the top floor of the Hoxton Hotel. It includes a bar, a dining room and a terrace area that can be covered.
Wooden tables and chairs, very dark lighting to the point of no lighting at all – in fact, you can’t see much at all, so it’s hard to get an idea.
The restaurant has an open kitchen.
To tell you whether it’s pretty or not, I’ll have to come back in daylight.
The menu
Peruvian dishes, just Peruvian dishes, and a list of drinks longer than the list of dishes.
The meal
I arrive at the Hoxton Hotel, which is fairly out of the way, a few minutes before the time of my reservation. I cross the lobby to take the elevator to the restaurant, passing by the hotel bar where the noise seems unbearable, despite being more than ten meters away.
Heading for the top floor.
As I exit the elevator, I find myself in a not-very-fancy corridor leading to the restaurant. I’m greeted in a fairly neutral way and seated at my table.
I’m in a fairly empty part of the room and yet the noise level is quite high, even if it’s nothing like the bar downstairs. It’s obviously coming from the restaurant bar.
On the other hand, the view is nice, even if it’s far from the best you can get of Chicago. For a breathtaking view, do as Olivier did and go to the Signature Room, but it’s not the same price.
I’ll have to use my phone’s torch feature to read the menu.
The waitress who takes care of me is much warmer than the front desk staff. We’ll chat a bit and I’ll place my order.
I’ll start with the Classic ceviche.
Not much to say. It’s good, it’s fresh, maybe not spicy enough for my taste. However, the quantities are a little light, as it’s already a dish I could eat tons of, but this isn’t particularly hearty either.
Then I’ll have a steak saltado.
It tastes great, and the meat is perfectly cooked. Tasty but moderately hearty, and as the starter was light I let myself go and added a third course: duck ceviche.
I’m sorry, but between the phone flash and a fake electric candle placed next to the dish, this is the best lighting I can get. It’s not much fun having to eat with a headlamp to see what’s on your plate!
It’s very fresh and tasty, the meat is melting but I found the dish too salty. Knowing that I often tend to add salt to all my dishes, I think that many would have only moderately appreciated this dish.
I wonder whether I’ll have dessert before my coffee or not….the waitress comes up to me and looks at me, asking “the bill?”. Well, if it’s kindly suggested like that… I jump at the chance and it’s neither coffee nor dessert!
The bill will come to $118, excluding service, for three courses and two glasses of wine (a Malbec that won’t break the bank). It was good, but never worth that much money.
One last detail that really got on my nerves: an automatic 3% surcharge to cover the cost of living and employee benefits. This is a surcharge that can be refused, and which the property prefers to the increase in the price of its dishes.
Of course, I don’t think many people would say no, but I find it an appalling hypocrisy. If you want to pay your employees better, you raise the price of the food, period, and you don’t add a supplement (even an optional one) to make the price lower than it really is. Less detestable than resort fees, but still…
The service
Neutral welcome, very pleasant service at the beginning, botched service at the end.
The atmosphere
Noisy, very noisy. The kind of restaurant where, if you’re accompanied, you end up not talking to each other because you’re tired of having to raise your voice. And to think that the hall was almost empty….
And since you’re practically eating in the dark, the only sense that will benefit from dinner is taste…
Bottom line
Setting aside the atmosphere, I had a very pleasant meal, right up to the moment of the bill. It’s worth 50 or 60 dollars including service, no more, especially since you can’t say you’re paying for the setting.
At 118 excluding the service, it’s a bit of a robbery.
The articles about this vacation in the United States
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