Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay, Hotel Savoy, London : Excellent !

While my wife and I are between two business trips, we had booked in this new address of the iconic English chef, and forgot to cancel before the 3 fateful days… So we had to go there at the risk of not being able to get the £150 deposit per person for the table… And we didn’t regret it, because it was a no-fail!

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The concept

1890, for the birth date of Auguste Escoffier, the French chef who symbolized the “new cuisine” and who marked the training of all the great chefs of today.

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Gordon Ramsay pays tribute to the legendary chef with a reference to his signature recipes.

The setting

The restaurant is located in the Savoy Hotel, an iconic property in the English capital. The interior has been updated, but shares all the spaces of the hotel with the pompous decoration. Not my taste.

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The menu

There is no menu, as a single tasting menu is served. Nevertheless, a personalized paper copy (with the wines or the options taken) is distributed at the end of the meal, superb!

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The meal and the dishes

The meal is served in 9 separate courses:

First appetizer

Lobster mousse cone: Superbly balanced

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Smoked cheese soufflé: excellent

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Dried crepe with red beet : very good, but a bit too much vinegar

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Second appetizer

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Fresh herbs, candied tomatoes: very fresh, reminds me of the Petrus salad

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Tomato consommé, olive oil: surprising but very balanced

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Bread with honey, salted butter: I had doubts but it is just succulent

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Starter: Brittany lobster, shiitake mushroom, truffled lobster bisque: superb balance of flavors

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Fish : Turbot Véronique, beurre blanc with champagne and caviar : very fine, interesting sweet and salty balance

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Meat : Rib of beef with bordelaise sauce, black truffle, Burgundy snail : superb, and the truffle (in supplement) really brings a plus

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Cheese : Comté 24 months of maturing, golden apple : excellent combination

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Pre-dessert: Raspberry Melba: very refreshing

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Dessert : Floating island : just superb, the strawberry custard balance is perfect

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Mignardise : Tropezienne : a little dry

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The service

The service was just perfect, worthy of a 3 star Michelin, with a steady pace between courses.

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The atmosphere

The atmosphere of the restaurant is very subdued, as only 10 tables are available. Intimate but not intimidating.

Bottom line

An experience worthy of at least 2 Michelin stars. We’ll be back for sure!

Olivier Delestre-Levai
Olivier Delestre-Levai
Olivier has been into airline blogging since 2010. First a major contributor to the FlyerTalk forum, he created the FlyerPlan website in July 2012, and writes articles with a major echo among airline specialists. He now co-runs the TravelGuys blog with Bertrand, focusing on travel experience and loyalty programs.
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