La Chapelle Saint-Martin: a 4-stars "home away from home"

A weekend in Limoges to attend a basketball game (because at TravelGuys we love basketball in general and the Limoges CSP in particular) gave us the opportunity to stay at La Chapelle Saint-Martin, in Nieul, a few 10 minutes drive from the capital of the Haute-Vienne. Chef Gilles Dudognon had just received his star and that was reason enough for us to go and discover a new experience, far from the world of big cities and big hotel chains that we usually frequent.

The property, a member of Relais et Châteaux, is located in a beautiful mansion around which some more modern extensions have been added to accompany the development of the business.

La Chapelle Saint-Martin, in the heart of a 40 hectares park

The property benefits from a 40-hectare park which we could only moderately enjoy at the end of winter, but which will undoubtedly delight the clients who will visit it in the summer.

A “home-like” welcome

As soon as we arrived we were immediately taken care of. The formalities could not be quicker: the hotel has only 10 rooms and 3 suites and apartments so the customer feels really expected. And at this time of the year we must have been the only two guests in the place, or almost.

After a guided tour of the property we take possession of our rooms. As far as I am concerned, it will be a “luxury” room of a little less than 40m2.

The decoration, if it surprises, contrasts with the very standardized sobriety of hotels of the same standing. We are closer to the “Boutique Relais Château”, obviously the objective is not to make you feel like you are in a hotel but rather visiting an aunt in the country and the whole experience of the stay will be in this line. No fuss, no bluster: the key words are warmth and simplicity.

From the window, you can see the park and the lake and imagine what a pleasure it must be in spring or summer.

The bathroom, bright and pleasant, with a large bathtub and Sothys products.

And as usual, a video speaks better than all the pictures.

One last point that will not leave many people insensitive: the place is absolutely silent. In the memory of Travelguys, we don’t remember having spent such a silent night for ages, so much so that for a Parisian it would become almost stressful…or on the contrary, surprisingly pleasant.

At the Chapelle Saint-Martin as at home

Before going to the restaurant, we decide to start with an aperitif at the bar of the property.

It is spacious, airy, comfortable.

I’ll have a homemade Americano served to me with some appetizers on the side. The cocktail is very well made, neither too strong nor too light.

To accompany a second glass we will take a tasting plate of “Cul Noir” ham, a regional specialty. A real delight.

We will have the chance to see Gilles Dudognon “himself” come and exchange a few words with us, telling us about the values he was trying to spread through the spirit of the property.

Simplicity, warmth and no bluster I say …. The discussion is totally in that mindset. Another example: we get up to go to the table…no note to sign at the bar before going to the restaurant any more than there will be one when leaving the restaurant to take a digestif in the lounge. The property knows the clients who reside there, they move in and out as they please, no need for unnecessary administrative complications.

La Chapelle Saint-Martin gets its Michelin star back

Because let’s not lose sight of the fact that this is what motivated our visit …. We are looking forward to discovering this table that a number of our friends had recommended to us.

The restaurant has a large diner room and smaller, intimate lounges. It is in one of them that we will be installed. It includes only four tables, each one at a corner, as much to say that one is there with calms and in a context favorable to a good tasting. There even more than in the restaurant you feel “at home”.

Contrary to the hotel part, the restaurant was nearly full. This is normal for one of the most renowned restaurants in the region, which also attracts a national and foreign clientele.

The restaurant offers two menus.

We will choose the “cuisine bourgeoise” menu with “wine pairing”, leaving the sommelier free to match each dish with the wine he finds most suitable.

First good point… the bread is homemade, you can see, feel and hear it when you crack the crust.

The appetizer:

Snacked scallops:

The Foie gras glazed with egg whithes montés in snow (really mellow)

Scampi with citrus butter:

Fillet of beef from Limousin. Naturally mellow, as one would expect, the House cannot afford to miss the presentation of a part of its heritage…but it is worth noting that the promise is kept and even exceeded.

The cheese platter :

The fresh citrus vodka that comes at the right time to refresh us, all in lightness:

And to finish, the sweet frozen candy apple:

.We are not Michelin, we are not going to make you an analysis dish by dish but we will be content to say that it was delicious. Perfectly presented and executed dishes, quick service (there is nothing worse on such tasting menus than when the wait between courses makes time pass, you get bored and then are no longer hungry) and perfect service: very professional, warm without being familiar, polite without being obsequious.

And the food and wine pairings were perfect.

We had the chance to chat with Gilles Dudognon again at the end of the service while he was asking about the experience of his guests and going to each table. It is always a pleasure to be able to speak with the chef after a service and ask him questions about the dishes, the organization of his brigade or his vision of what makes a successful client experience and the human and managerial challenges of a small property like this.

Pool, Honey, Suites and Pavilion at the Chapelle Saint-Martin

While we were able to relax during a short walk in the park, the winter weather did not lend itself to a pool test. The property also has an outdoor tennis court.

For those wanting more space or traveling with a child, the hotel also has two suites on the first floor overlooking the park, which we were kindly allowed to visit.

The first one.

And the second with a children’s room.

Even better for larger families or people who want a lot more space, there is the “Pavilion”. It is an independent building that has been rehabilitated into a small two floors house. Amazing.

Ground Floor:

First Floor:

Unfortunately, we did not have the key to visit the second room, located on the ground floor.

And, icing on the cake, La Chapelle Saint-Martin makes its own honey that it sells to its guests. We tasted, we bought, and we are convinced.

La Chapelle Saint-Martin : we return there as soon as we can !

Our conclusion is without appeal: we will go back, we just have to find the opportunity. It is restful, warm, the cuisine really deserves its star and the staff is very attentive. A perfect place to get away from Parisian stress and relax without going into the ~~lion’s den~~ of similar places located in ultra-touristic and crowded areas.

Hotel : So of course you have to go to Limoges and the 3h30 journey has an impact on the weekend. Once there, we are not in the city center either, so a cab is mandatory (10 minutes). But you have to know what you are looking for and if you are looking for an exceptional experience and calm, this is the perfect place. Once there, you will enjoy this timeless bubble of calm in a very pleasant setting. 8

Check-in / Check-out: smooth and trouble-free. 10

Room: good size, nice bathroom. As for the decoration, it’s a question of bias: around us, some like it, others less so. Again, if you buy the idea of “like at home” or “stay in the country in the family” it is perfect. Otherwise there are more design places, more “normalized” but in this case as well go to a chain. I was going to put 8 but it will be 9 after the visit of the Pavilion…you never know.

Restaurant: it can only be 10.

Facilities: superb park, to our great regret the swimming pool will be for another time. Perfect ? Because I like to be picky and hard to please, I would say that with a Spa the picture would be idyllic. But for 10 rooms is it really reasonable ? 9

Service and attention:10.

Experience for money : It’s true that we haven’t talked about money yet in this post. A room (from memory) around 160 euros, the tasting menu at 95 euros (around 150 in my memory with a quality wine pairing and not at all ungrateful on the quantity)….. Maybe it’s our habit of Paris and capitals that creates a distorting prism but in our opinion it’s almost a gift. 10.