Restaurant D.O.M., Sao Paulo : Very disappointing

After a series of very tiring workshops, I decided to treat myself to a starred restaurant for the last evening in Sao Paulo.

As a reminder, here is the itinerary followed:

#TypeReview
1DiaryBrazil
2LoungeGalleries First, Londres Heathrow T5
3FlightBritish Airways Club World Suite, Londres Heathrow – São Paulo Guarulhos, Airbus A350-1000
4HotelRenaissance São Paulo
5RestaurantD.O.M. São Paulo
6LoungeAdvantage VIP Lounge, São Paulo Conghonas
7FlightLATAM Premium Economy, São Paulo Conghonas – Rio Santos Dumont, Airbus A320
8HotelSheraton Rio
9DiaryCorcovado
10RestaurantTérèze Rio de Janeiro
11LoungePlaza Premium Rio GIG Domestic
12FlightLATAM Premium Economy, Rio GIG – São Paulo Guarulhos, Airbus A319
13LoungeLATAM Lounge, São Paulo Guarulhos
14FlightBritish Airways Club World Suite, São Paulo Guarulhos – Londres Heathrow, Airbus A350-1000
15LoungeBritish Airways Galleries Arrival, Londres Heathrow T5
Today’s itinerary

The concept

The concept is quite simple and very clear:a gastronomic twist to traditional Brazilian cuisine. And crowned with 2 macaroons in the Michelin guide.

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The setting

The setting is rather successful, even if I don’t really understand the concept, a little too heavy to please me.

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The menu

The menu is rather simple: it is a single menu, vegetarian or not, with Wine Pairing or not. It will cost about 170€ per person with the wine pairing (which will be generous).

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The meal and the dishes

Here are the dishes that were served this evening. Note that it is not very copious.

Aperitif: fermented pineapple kombucha style

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Papaya and mango salad, lemon jelly and Amazonian ant: very interesting, very fresh. The ant is to be eaten with the hand. Nice balance with the Verdejo of the Wine pairing

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Raw and marinated shrimp, shrimp bisque and espresso: absolutely sumptuous French Riesling asssz dry but smoky and complex

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Tomato marinated in dashi: just perfect, mixed with the fat of organic Sake: very worked

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Mushroom mousse, mushroom brunoise, mushroom broth served with a swaziland sauvignon: The dish is a bit acidic for my taste. Wine a little young, as acidic as the dish.

Hollandaise, perfect egg, manioc soufflé: dish rather unbalanced, hollandaise too lemony, Australian orange wine very interesting

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Pao de queijo : a killer accompanied by an excellent Brazilian rosé

Brazilian codfish, tapenade, piu-piu: ultra original and super balanced. Same wine

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Lamb confit, manioc gnocchi accompanied by an Argentinian Malbec: a little acid, meat not confit enough but fabulous gnocchi. Remove the coriander that takes precedence – Malbec too young

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Noble rot, acid honey, Poiré Breton : Superb combination

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Coconut and honey sorbet: very little sugar, ultra refreshing

Green fig, port reduction, sweet gorgonzola accompanied by a sweet French sparkling wine: what can I say? It’s really disgusting, the tastes don’t go together, it’s just an insult to gastronomy.

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Mushroom meringue, native coffee: interesting but not crazy. Especially very sweet

The service

The service isvery good without being overrated.

The atmosphere

The atmosphere was rather calm… Until the arrival of a table of Americans who could not stop shouting. Fortunately, they quickly calmed down.

Bottom line

A half-hearted dinner. The dishes were sometimes excellent, sometimes totally unsuccessful. And for a price not sweet at all.

Olivier Delestre-Levai
Olivier Delestre-Levai
Olivier has been into airline blogging since 2010. First a major contributor to the FlyerTalk forum, he created the FlyerPlan website in July 2012, and writes articles with a major echo among airline specialists. He now co-runs the TravelGuys blog with Bertrand, focusing on travel experience and loyalty programs.
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