After a series of very tiring workshops, I decided to treat myself to a starred restaurant for the last evening in Sao Paulo.
As a reminder, here is the itinerary followed:
The concept
The concept is quite simple and very clear:a gastronomic twist to traditional Brazilian cuisine. And crowned with 2 macaroons in the Michelin guide.
The setting
The setting is rather successful, even if I don’t really understand the concept, a little too heavy to please me.
The menu
The menu is rather simple: it is a single menu, vegetarian or not, with Wine Pairing or not. It will cost about 170€ per person with the wine pairing (which will be generous).
The meal and the dishes
Here are the dishes that were served this evening. Note that it is not very copious.
Aperitif: fermented pineapple kombucha style
Papaya and mango salad, lemon jelly and Amazonian ant: very interesting, very fresh. The ant is to be eaten with the hand. Nice balance with the Verdejo of the Wine pairing
Raw and marinated shrimp, shrimp bisque and espresso: absolutely sumptuous French Riesling asssz dry but smoky and complex
Tomato marinated in dashi: just perfect, mixed with the fat of organic Sake: very worked
Mushroom mousse, mushroom brunoise, mushroom broth served with a swaziland sauvignon: The dish is a bit acidic for my taste. Wine a little young, as acidic as the dish.
Hollandaise, perfect egg, manioc soufflé: dish rather unbalanced, hollandaise too lemony, Australian orange wine very interesting
Pao de queijo : a killer accompanied by an excellent Brazilian rosé
Brazilian codfish, tapenade, piu-piu: ultra original and super balanced. Same wine
Lamb confit, manioc gnocchi accompanied by an Argentinian Malbec: a little acid, meat not confit enough but fabulous gnocchi. Remove the coriander that takes precedence – Malbec too young
Noble rot, acid honey, Poiré Breton : Superb combination
Coconut and honey sorbet: very little sugar, ultra refreshing
Green fig, port reduction, sweet gorgonzola accompanied by a sweet French sparkling wine: what can I say? It’s really disgusting, the tastes don’t go together, it’s just an insult to gastronomy.
Mushroom meringue, native coffee: interesting but not crazy. Especially very sweet
The service
The service isvery good without being overrated.
The atmosphere
The atmosphere was rather calm… Until the arrival of a table of Americans who could not stop shouting. Fortunately, they quickly calmed down.
Bottom line
A half-hearted dinner. The dishes were sometimes excellent, sometimes totally unsuccessful. And for a price not sweet at all.
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