It’s impossible to stay in Catania and not drive the 40 kilometers or so to Taormina. Olivier took me there once when we were in Catania for the weekend for a family visit, but it was late in January, night was beginning to fall and, of course, the site was virtually deserted.

So this time I had the opportunity to rediscover this site under “normal” conditions and, I think, at the best time of year. It was April, quite warm but far from the scorching temperatures of summer, and there were enough people to make it lively, but without the summer crowds that can make a visit unpleasant.

At the bottom of the page you’ll find a summary of articles about this vacation in Sicily.

Table of Contents

• How to get to Taormina
• Taormina in a nutshell
• The ancient theater of Taormina
• The Odeon
• The Corvaja Palace
• Santa Caterina Church
• San Giuseppe church
• Taormina Cathedral
• The gardens of Taormina’s Villa Comunale
• Strolling the streets of Taormina
• Bottom line
• The articles about this trip to Sicily

How to get to Taormina

From Catania you have two options: rent a car or take the train, which I did with Trenitalia’s excellent regional trains to the Taormina-Giardini Naxos station.

From there, you have two options: either take a bus into the historic center (which is off-limits to cars, who have to park in a huge parking lot outside town), or take what they call the ” Trail Road “, which is a small path on the side of the mountain that takes you into town. This is of course the option I chose on both the outward and return trips.

At first it’s tarmac and gently uphill, then it gets much steeper and steeper.

Not recommended for those in poor physical condition: at the end you really need legs to complete the climb, and in midsummer the heat must make the exercise unbearable.

At the end of each bend you think you’ve arrived, only to discover that you haven’t.

Having said that, I climbed at a brisk pace to enjoy the site before the influx of visitors, which gave me a good workout on my cardio, with a peak of 165bpm at the end of the route… my legs were aching but I wasn’t out of breath.

For those tempted by adventure, by the end of the tour and after returning to the station, I had climbed the equivalent of 81 storeys.

For the others, there’s always the bus.

Anyway, after buying myself a bottle of water and taking 20 minutes to cool off and enjoy the view, it’s time to get down to business.

Taormina in a nutshell

Taormina is located high up on the east coast of Sicily, and combines a rich historical past with an exceptional natural setting. Founded in the 4th century B.C. by the Greeks, it quickly became an important cultural and commercial center, benefiting from its strategic position overlooking the Ionian Sea. Over the centuries, it came under Roman, Byzantine, Arab and Norman domination, each civilization leaving its mark on its architecture and heritage.

In the 19th century, it became a popular destination for European high society, seduced by its picturesque charm and romantic atmosphere. Today, the town retains its historic character, with cobbled streets, medieval churches and stone buildings, while offering a very premium experience with its boutiques, restaurants and charming hotels.

The ancient theater of Taormina

It’s the city’s most important site, and well worth a visit in its own right.

This is one of Sicily’s most important historical remains. Originally built in the 3rd century B.C. by the Greeks, then enlarged and modified by the Romans, it bears witness to the influence of the various civilizations that have left their mark on the island. The theater is remarkable not only for its size, with a capacity of around 5,000 spectators, but also for its state of preservation and unique natural setting.

It offers superb views of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna.

It’s a typical example of Greek hemicycle construction, oriented to offer a unique panorama of the surrounding landscape. The Romans modified the structure to accommodate shows typical of their culture, such as gladiatorial combat, adding brick stage elements.

In the region’s history, Taormina’s ancient theater has played a central role as a gathering place for public performances and ceremonies, reflecting Taormina’s cultural importance in Greco-Roman times.

The Odeon

Taormina’s Odeon, built in the 2nd century A.D. during the Roman Empire, is a small theater designed for more intimate musical and theatrical performances than those of the great ancient theater. Located behind the Palazzo Corvaja, this hemicycle-shaped building was probably reserved for the town’s notables.

The Corvaja Palace

The Palazzo Corvaja is one of Taormina’s most emblematic buildings, reflecting several centuries of history. Built in the 10th century by the Arabs, it has been modified over the centuries, notably by the Normans and the Spanish. The palace blends Arab, Gothic and Catalan architectural elements, testifying to the diversity of influences that have left their mark on Sicily.

Unfortunately, it was not open to the public when I visited.

Santa Caterina Church

It’s a striking example of Sicilian Baroque architecture. Built in the 17th century on the ruins of an ancient Roman temple dedicated to Aphrodite, it is dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Its sober yet elegant façade features columns and ornamentation typical of the Baroque style.

Inside, the church features refined decorative elements, including a marble altar and several religious statues. The Church of Santa Caterina is a place of worship still in use today, linking pagan past and Christian devotion in the image of the town’s past.

San Giuseppe church

It’s a fine example of Sicilian Baroque architecture. Built in the 17th century, the church is dedicated to St. Joseph and features a pale pink facade adorned with scrolls, columns and an elegant rose window, all characteristic of the Baroque style.

The church’s interior is simple yet refined, with frescoes depicting biblical scenes and a marble-decorated altar.

It is located in Piazza IX Aprile, and from its forecourt or on the square you can enjoy a spectacular panoramic view of the Bay of Naxos and Mount Etna.

Taormina Cathedral

Taormina Cathedral, also known as Duomo di San Nicola, is a 13th-century building that reflects a blend of architectural styles, mainly Romanesque and Gothic. Built of local stone, it has an austere appearance, reinforced by its fortified facade and battlements, reminiscent of a fortress.

Inside, the cathedral is more modest, with a marble altar and several side chapels housing religious works of art. The Duomo is dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Bari and remains an active place of worship.

The gardens of Taormina’s Villa Comunale

The gardens of Taormina’s Villa Communale, also known as Giardini della Villa Comunale, offer a haven of peace and greenery in the heart of the city. Created in the 19th century by Lady Florence Trevelyan, a Scottish aristocrat who had settled in Taormina, the gardens are inspired by English parks, with shady avenues, exotic plants and stone pavilions.

They offer breathtaking views of the Ionian Sea, Mount Etna and the Bay of Naxos.

Strolling the streets of Taormina

Taormina isn’t just about historic sites, it’s also about setting and atmosphere.

To stroll through the streets of Taormina is to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that is both historic and vibrant. Its cobbled streets, lined with craft stores, terraced cafés and stone buildings, transport you into a unique setting, where every corner seems to tell a story of the city’s many influences.

The atmosphere is a surprising mix of calm and bustle. In the morning, the streets are quiet, ideal for a leisurely stroll. In the late afternoon, things get busier, but you can still feel the gentle pace of life.

Bottom line

I had high expectations of Taormina and was not disappointed. My only regret, perhaps, is that I didn’t book a hotel to stay a while and enjoy the town in the evening and the bay of Naxos.

Maybe next time?

And as I set off again for Catania, Etna began to smoke a little…

The articles about this trip to Sicily

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