Cura in Lisbon, the restaurant of the Ritz Four Seasons is a very good gastronomic offering a rather inventive cuisine on classic bases.
For this dinner in Lisbon the choice was not complicated. For my birthday, I had made a short list of restaurants, mainly starred, for this special occasion. But the date fell on a Sunday and only one of them was open that day so the choice was quickly made.
You will find at the bottom of the page all the articles about this trip to Portugal.
The concept
It is a gastronomic restaurant that, as is becoming more and more standard, highlights meticulously chosen local products to offer a rather creative cuisine that revisits the Portuguese cuisine.
It has one Michelin star.
The setting of the restaurant
Sober and warm decoration, without frills, open kitchen.
At first sight there are about 40 seats.
The menu
No à la carte choice but four set menus are proposed.
I will take the Origens menu which is the chef’s signature menu, an exploration of Portuguese cuisine from north to south.
The Raizes menu is the same but without animal protein and the other two are the same but with fewer dishes.
Dinner and service
I arrive at the restaurant a few minutes before the time of my reservation. Cura is the restaurant of the Ritz Four Seasons.
The reception is smiling and not overly uptight.
I am seated at my table and asked if I want something to drink. I’ll start with sparkling water and, a rare thing, I’ll be asked what temperature I want it at.
A warm Oshibori scented with a floral infusion arrives quickly.
A glass of champagne while I read the menu to make my choice.
As said above I will take the Origen menu. They will wait until I finish the champagne to bring the first course and tolde me to take my time.
The first course arrives: Tartar of minhota | mushrooms | foie gras.
Very fresh and balanced.
Amberjack | beet | orange blossom lime
The yellowtail reminds me of sashimi, especially with its accompaniment of sweet wasabi. The beet balances the whole perfectly.
Red tuna with horseradish and turnip, smoked broth
The broth is excellent with a tomato aftertaste, I’m less fond of the tuna whose taste leaves me skeptical.
Seafood chaw anmushi | lupine | shiso
A rather funny creation since the same ingredients (sea snails among others) are found in the soup and in the doughnut.
Very nice and good.
Squid | hazelnut | grilled seaweed butter | bergamot | Ossietra
Here again something very surprising: once mixed the squid jelly becomes like tagliatelle with a hazelnut butter and bergamot sauce.
Fresh, tasty and good.
Broccoli / Transmontonos Couscous / Cucumber / Pennyroyals (mint)
To the nose you find a taboulet with mint and cucumber, in mouth it is fresh it is crispy and a little smoked.
I am a fan.
Bread : Old wheat bread / milk bread | aged butter | green olive oil + cheese cracker
No, you’re not dreaming: the bread arrives as a dish in the middle of the meal!
Excellent: with the butter and the olive oil it is a real killer. Using a loaf of bread as a dish, that was a daring move!
Of course the rest comes quickly, with the bread accompanying the rest of the meal.
Turbot | sweet peas | barnacles | wild garlic
Brought and introduced by the chef himself.
The cooking of the fish is perfect. The whole is full of flavor and is difficult to describe: there are things that are experienced and cannot be explained.
Lamb | Mustards | Black Truffle
Eat with your fingers like a taco!
The mix of the three ingredients is perfect and, contrary to expectations, it’s really light and fresh!
Galician beef | cauliflower | bittersweet sage | chanterelles
Meat grilled to perfection, you’d think it came out of the barbecue. Once again, the flavors are perfectly combined.
Citrus fruits | Fennel | Halophytes
Fresh and effective with citrus ice cream to wash down all the dishes that came before and project towards dessert.
Parsnips | honey roasted milk
Light, fresh and good.
Some candies before the tea.
I will finish with a homemade mint tea accompanied by the Portuguese cousin of Cognac.
And just when I thought I was done, a little surprise for my birthday.
In the end an excellent meal: very successful visuals, original associations of flavors, and despite everything a cuisine inspired by great Portuguese classics.
The service
The staff was perfect from start to finish. I was taken care of by a duo of young waitresses operating in pairs, one presenting the dishes and the other serving them in turn. Young but very professional.
The atmosphere
Cozy but not stuffy.
Piano music at the beginning, electro music at the end, loud enough to not hear the table next to you, soft enough to hear the people you are eating with.
Bottom line
A rather expensive bill (330€ with wine pairing) more in line with restaurants in other European capitals than with Lisbon prices but finally totally justified for this special occasion.
No reproach to make, full of beautiful surprises, flavors that blend perfectly and a very good service, what more could you ask for?
Articles about this trip to Portugal
Review | Type | Post |
#1 | Diary | Preparing my birthday trip to Portugal |
#2 | Flight | Paris Orly-Lisbon – TAP – Business Class – Embraer 195 |
#3 | Hotel | Sheraton Lisbon |
#4 | Restaurant | Zunzum Gastrobar, Lisbon |
#5 | Restaurant | Solar Dos Bicos, Lisbon |
#6 | Restaurant | Cura, Lisbon |
#7 | Restaurant | O Frade, Lisbon |
#8 | Restaurant | 100 Maneiras, Lisbon |
#9 | Restaurant | Nomada, Lisbon |
#10 | Diary | Lisbon day #1: downtown |
#11 | Diary | Lisbon day #2: Belem and beyond |
#12 | Hotel | Four Points by Sheraton Sesimbra |
#13 | Restaurant | O Batel Sesimbra |
#14 | Restaurant | Espadarte Sesimbra |
#15 | Lounge | TAP Premium lounge Lisbon |
#16 | Flight | Lisbon-Paris Orly, TAP, Business Class, Airbus A330Neo. |
#17 | Diary | Debriefing of the trip to Lisbon and Sesimbra |