Freyja offers excellent Scandinavian-inspired cuisine, with dishes of apparent simplicity that emphasize the quality of local produce.
For my last evening in Melbourne, I was looking for something a little original, and after having overindulged in Asian cuisine, opting for Freyja, a renowned Scandinavian restaurant, seemed an obvious choice. What’s more, I still had in mind my dinner at Elska’s in Brisbane a little over a year earlier, a restaurant that has unfortunately since closed.
I had to put a reminder in my diary because the restaurant didn’t accept reservations more than a month in advance. As soon as I book, they ask me if I want the tasting menu, which always bothers me a bit, because even if I did, you never know several weeks in advance what state of mind you’ll be in on the big day.
You’ll find a summary of the articles about this trip to Australia at the bottom of the page.
The concept
As explained above, this is a Scandinavian restaurant, or rather, a restaurant that combines local produce with Scandinavian cooking techniques.
The kitchens are run by Jae Bang, a Korean chef…. who cut his teeth at El Bulli (3*) before moving on to Daniel’s in New York (2*) and Renaa in Norway, where he also obtained 2 stars.
And finally, Freyja is considered a goddess of love, sexuality, beauty, earth and fertility.
The setting
Scandinavian usually means simple, natural, uncluttered and woody… and that’s exactly the case here.
The menu
The meal
I arrive on time for my reservation. I’m greeted cordially and seated at my table. Having specified when booking that I’d chosen the tasting menu, it’s already on the table when I sit down.
I’m immediately asked if I’d like some water, and the person who greeted me introduces me to the waiter who will take care of me.
Before I start, I’ll have an aperitif and for once, instead of my usual Negroni, I’ll have a house cocktail: the … Nordic Negroni (Bornholm aquavit, campari, sweet vermouth).
Not bad at all and despite my many peregrinations in Scandinavia I think this is the first time I’ve drunk aquavit.
The service then begins.
Oyster rhubarb, kosho
You can’t detect any iodine, but strangely enough, the rhubarb is very present. Note: kosho is a blend of yuzu and chili pepper.
It’s beautiful, fresh and dominated by rhubarb and lemon: I really like it.
Mussels, smoked paprika, sherry vinegar, kelp
It is shown next to the oyster in the previous photo.
Very good, a little spicy as I like it.
Lamb tartar, tarragon, blueberries, rye
It’s very fresh, very tasty, you can smell the tarragon first and then the blueberry.
Really excellent, I’m a fan!
Tuna, cucumber, pine, blood orange, lime, hazelnut
The cucumber is well-balanced by the rest, and the result is something a little smoky.
Freyja waffle, smoked sour cream, mixed herbs, Yarra Valley trout roe
The waffle is very fine and the mixture of herbs and trout egg a real treat. On the other hand, the ending is a bit heavy-handed.
Rock ling, black garlic, fiolaro, buttermilk sourdough and cultured butter
Very fine and tasty, the combination of fiolaro (broccoli) and garlic works wonders. The result is a rather smoky accompaniment and a very fresh sauce.
Duck, daikon, mustard leaf, blackcurrant, coriander seeds
Melt-in-the-mouth meat, perfectly cooked, and I really appreciate the coriander. On the other hand, the sauce is too sweet for my taste, and although it’s a good dish in the end, it’s perhaps the one that least convinced me.
Berries, yoghurt, elderflower, bay leaf, pistachio
Very fresh and well-balanced, with the yoghurt offsetting the bitterness of the berries.
To finish, I’ll have a lemongrass and ginger tea, which will be excellent.
All for a final bill of 200 euros, including wine pairing.
The service
Very good, very friendly and smiling staff, the waiter took all his time to give me lots of details about the dishes and answer my questions.
The atmosphere
The electro music may be a little loud, but it’s not distracting, and I won’t pay any more attention to it as the meal progresses. Very friendly atmosphere.
Bottom Line
An excellent dinner with dishes that are both simple and sophisticated, which is what I like about Scandinavian cuisine. It’s a bit like their design: there’s a lot of work, research and technique involved, but the result is an apparent illusion of simplicity that highlights the products and contrasts with the complexity and even heaviness of dishes I’ve had in other gourmet restaurants.
The articles about this vacation in Australia
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