As the first step in a more global approach aimed at preserving a part of France’s heritage, or even saving an endangered masterpiece, the French government has just classified “the social and cultural practices of bistros and cafés in France” as part of the country’s intangible cultural heritage.
A few days ago, we talked about the uniqueness of French bistros, not only because of their special atmosphere and culture, but also because of their worrying situation. There were 500,000 of them in 1900, 400,000 after the Second World War, and fewer than 40,000 in 2024.
The slow death of cafés and bistros in France
To what do we attribute this decline? A lot of little things came together.
First of all, there’s a change in consumption patterns: eating habits are changing, with a growing preference for fast food or take-away, particularly in big cities. Fast-food and fast-casual restaurants, which are more affordable and often faster, are attracting a younger clientele.
These new consumer trends are creating heightened competition. These establishments, with their often more diversified or “trendy” offerings, are capturing a significant share of the customer base.
Economic pressure is no stranger to this situation either: Bistros are under severe pressure from high costs, including rents, taxes and charges. Margins are particularly thin, and many are struggling to keep pace with the price increases needed to maintain profitability. What’s more, labor costs and the lack of qualified restaurant staff complicate their operations.
Nor should we forget changing tastes and lifestyles: growing awareness of health and nutrition issues is also influencing this decline. Bistros, often associated with rich, hearty fare, no longer always meet the expectations of a diet-conscious clientele. It’s a preconceived notion that’s hard to dispel, given that many bistros are now committed to healthier, home-made cooking.
There’s also a lack of renewal in the clientele. Bistro regulars are aging, and younger generations are no longer frequenting them as much, attracted by other, more modern options. Passing on bistros is difficult, and heirs often prefer to sell or convert the establishments.
And finally, there’s the impact of crises, and here it’s appropriate to use the plural. Of course, the COVID-19 pandemic is on everyone’s mind, accelerating the decline, with prolonged closures that left many bistros economically fragile. Some have been unable to reopen, while others have not regained their former clientele. But before that, there were the yellow vests, which caused serious damage to urban commerce, and even before that, the 2015 terrorist attacks, which drove people to avoid public places of conviviality, especially in Paris.
For all these reasons, people mobilized to raise awareness of the fact that, in addition to losing establishments, we were losing part of our culture and art of living, which in 2018 led to the creation of the Association for the Recognition of the Art of Living in France’s Bistros and Cafés as Intangible Cultural Heritage.
And if you’re still wondering why, just watch this video, which is worth a thousand times more than reading this article.
Intangible heritage listing, an essential step
So it was only a few weeks ago, and after years of struggle, that it was confirmed that “the social and cultural practices of bistros and cafés in France” had been listed as part of France’s intangible heritage.
It’s important to note that it’s not the bistros and cafés that are listed, but the social and cultural practices they embody. This brings us back to what we find unique about bistros: their atmosphere. You can copy a place, but you can’t copy its culture.
This listing is just a battle, because the objective of the fight is indeed their registration on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
Bottom line
If I were never to find an Osteria in Italy again, it would be a bit like removing the Colosseum or the Leaning Tower of Pisa, or draining the canals of Venice: a part of the country’s history and culture would be lost.
The same goes for Spanish tapas bars and English pubs: none resembles a French bistro, but all embody the same thing in their own way in their own country.
I often bump into foreign tourists, chat with them, and they ask me to recommend “a typical bistro” for their dinner.
I just don’t want one day to have to say to them ” oh that’s a thing of the past“, a bit like I would say to them ” I don’t want to have to say to them “The Eiffel Tower? But we took it down last year “.
Image : french bistro by Alex_Mastro via Shutterstock.
