Domaine des Hauts de Loire, Relais et Chateaux: The refinement of French service

For once, we’re not staying at Marriott, but at a Relais & Châteaux property to round off our summer vacation.

Itinerary reminder :

#TypeReview
1TrainSNCF TGV InOui Atlantique, 1st class, Paris Montparnasse-St Pierre des Corps
2HotelDomaine des Hauts de Loire, Relais et Chateaux
3TrainSNCF TGV InOui Atlantique, 1st class, Saint-Pierre-des-Corps – Paris Montparnasse
Today’s itinerary

Booking

I made the booking almost 45 days before our arrival. We had decided to visit the Loire castles, in combination with Majorca and Seville, as an alternative to our American road trip.

Overview of the property, here the reception building

The property is often fully booked, and often expensive. We tried to find the best date in terms of price and to suit our schedule.

Superb red roses adorn the façade of the main building

So it’ll be a Friday evening for €290 a night, including breakfast, for a standard room.

The wooded park will be very pleasant

There were no fully flexible rates with no deposit. Our rates are flexible up to 48 hours before arrival, and a 30% deposit is required.

Arrival

We arrive at the hotel by rental car at the end of the morning. Our room is not yet ready, and we leave our luggage at reception.

Outward reception overview

The welcome is absolutely charming, and everyone greets us with the respect befitting the hotel’s clientele.

A baggage handler will take charge of our belongings with these quaint wheelbarrows

We take a tour of the estate, then decide to have lunch before exploring the area.

We return to the hotel in the late afternoon, and complete the arrival formalities. We are given our key (retro), and a concierge accompanies us to our room. Our luggage has already been carefully arranged in the room.

The very retro key to our room

Room

Our room is located in the former stables, on the second floor. It is quite spacious.

Just inside the entrance are the (separate) toilets and the rather kitsch bathroom. The toiletries are from Clarins, and of excellent quality.

The bathroom tiles are a bit too much
Clarins products are of excellent quality
I’m looking for tips on how to order these Clarins products (those available in hotels are still not available on the Clarins website).
The level of detail is impressive, right down to these branded glasses

The bathrobes are very comfortable and (I appreciate the details) the belts are already put in the loops, which avoids the ridiculous moment when the belt falls into the shower water…

Overview of the bathroom, with its… interesting decor!
Room overview
Then the other side. Interesting choice of carpet.
View from our window towards the main building

The bedroom is very… pink, thanks to the toile de Jouy on the walls. It has a TV, a minibar, water, a well-decorated desk and a bed that will be very comfortable.

The bed, small but comfortable
Toile de Jouy is everywhere
The office is very pleasant, bathed in late August sunshine.
These freshly-cut white roses make a great decoration.
The minibar is still in its original condition

To ensure complete darkness, blackout curtains complement the beautiful country curtains.

Always nice to have this little note card when it’s time for the night shift.

To finish, a video tour:

Hotel facilities

The hotel has a fitness room, a guinguette, a spa and a swimming pool.

The pool is located away from the house, and is protected by safety fences as required in France.

The number of mattresses is limited
We won’t be using the pool for lack of better weather

The fitness room is right next door, and we won’t be using it.

The fitness room by the pool

A few yards away is a small guinguette with a boulodrome. We’ll have a little game with my wife before lunch.

The boulodrome to keep us busy before lunch

Unfortunately, the spa will be reserved for treatments, so the sauna and steam room will not be accessible to us.

Food options

The strong point of a Relais & Châteaux property is its catering. We’ll be taking full advantage of this, having lunch, dinner and breakfast.

Lunch at the Bistrot

Before setting off to explore the region, we choose to have an early lunch at the Bistrot, around 12pm.

The interior architecture is very successful

When we arrive shortly after 12pm, the bistro is still empty. The welcome is very kind and we settle down at a table.

Overview of the Bistrot interior

A few hot gougères are brought to us and we order a few drinks.

After ordering, warm, homemade bread is brought to us, and it’s excellent.

The excellent warm bread served at the Bistrot

Dishes are brought to us quickly, and they were excellent: a pan of kidneys and veal rice with cream for me, a veal cutlet for my wife, served generously. The quality of the vegetable tian was excellent.

That’s for sure: we won’t go hungry during our afternoon explorations!
This typically local dish will be excellent

The dessert, a red fruit tartlet that we shared, was just divine, and augured the best for the evening meal.

Just looking at the photo makes my mouth water!

Dinner at gourmet restaurant (2 Michelin stars)

We had a 7:30pm reservation at the property’s gourmet restaurant, which has 2 Michelin stars. I had confirmed this booking when we arrived at the hotel and we arrived after a well-deserved shower following our day in the heat.

We sit outside for an aperitif and order two glasses of champagne while we choose our menu.

Our glasses of champagne are brought to us with excellent amuse-bouche.

A few amuse-bouches and two glasses of rosé champagne before dinner.

Our waiter returns to take our dinner order. We’ll choose the grand gourmet menu with wine pairing.

Towels are embroidered with the name of the house

Once we’ve finished our aperitif, we go inside and sit down at the table. Service is good, but not exceptional.

The gourmet restaurant dining room
Setting is extremely comprehensive

The dishes, on the other hand, are succulent.

Our favorite: the caviar, truly sublimated.

The liqueur cart takes pride of place near reception

We’ll have our infusion at the bar and finish the evening with a few chocolates.

Finishing the evening like this, I take it!

Breakfast (at the bistro)

After a very restful night, we head to the bistro for breakfast. We’ll have it on the very buccolic terrace.

Relax at breakfast on the terrace!
The set-up is perfect, and the table is a real eye-catcher.
Excellent homemade smoked salmon
The table is perfectly set
The porcelain is very original

Service is entirely at the table. We’ll opt for the scrambled eggs, which will be cooked to order with crispy bacon. A delight.

This brioche won’t stay on the table for long.
The perfect environment for a good start to the day

The pastries will also be exceptional. Everything will be of the highest quality, including the service.

Departure

We’ll be leaving mid-morning, the bill will be correct and everything will go smoothly.

One last look before leaving

Bottom line

An excellent stay. The price wasn’t sweet, but the service was so good that we’ll be back. We regret the staff’s lack of English skills. It’s a pity.

Olivier Delestre-Levai
Olivier Delestre-Levai
Olivier has been into airline blogging since 2010. First a major contributor to the FlyerTalk forum, he created the FlyerPlan website in July 2012, and writes articles with a major echo among airline specialists. He now co-runs the TravelGuys blog with Bertrand, focusing on travel experience and loyalty programs.
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