Last night in Seville. I’ve done “popular” (excellent that said) at Orangier, “gastro” tapas at Ena, “fine dining” expensive and a bit disappointing at the San Fernando, what to choose for my last evening? I opt for a modern and creative choice by going to De La O.

In this article:

• The concept of De La O
• The setting
• The De La O Menu
• The meal and the dishes
• The service
• The atmosphere at De La O
• Bottom line

The concept of De La O

In two words I would say authenticity and creativity.

Authenticity first. The restaurant prides itself on offering “original” cuisine. That is to say, by using fresh, seasonal products, from local producers and purchased without intermediaries.

Authenticity also because, as we will see later, the property wants to be part of the promotion and development of its neighborhood (Triana) and exhibits local “artists”. I say “artist” because the person in charge I saw (or is it the boss) doesn’t recognize himself as talented enough to judge a person’s talent so he tries to promote people who want to exhibit.

Creativity because it is not because they focus on local products in a region and a country with a strong culture that they do not have the right to innovate and get off the beaten track.

Anyway, this recent restaurant does not lack promise.

The setting

The restaurant is located at the very end of the Triana district, which means that there is a good chance that it is on the other side of the canal from your hotel. From the Alfonso XIII it took me 20 minutes of walking, nothing insurmountable.

It is located on the edge of the canal, so it is not accessible by car, you will have to be dropped off in a parallel and finish on foot.

It is indeed an area in full development and it seems a bit lonely in its corner at the end of Triana.

Up close it becomes quite inviting.

The restaurant consists of a single room, all in length.

The kitchen is “half open”.

And as I said, it allows local artists to launch and exhibit their creations.

It is simple, clean, the wood goes well with the plants. Simplicity and good taste.

The De La O Menu

Who says fresh products and local producers says in general a short menu and it is the case here.

As expecteduc is simple but creative. No convoluted dish names or concepts, but a nice promise though.

The meal and the dishes

When I arrived I was the first customer. In Seville a reservation at 20:30 is early! I am taken in charge by the person in charge (boss?) of the place.

Not at ease with his English he speaks to me immediately in perfect French. He explains me the idea of the place, its history, his will to be part of a quasi civic logic of promotion of his district, of the artists that he exposes etc. For the artists it rotates every 15 days to give a chance to a maximum of people.

A very good start.

I choose a table at the back of the room and I am brought the menu. Many things interest me and he will explain at length some of the dishes and help me with the final choice.

A couple settles down next to me…I’m not the only one to dine early. Ah…they speak French (while discussing I will learn that they are Swiss or Belgian I do not remember). Anyway.

I will start with the shrimp in brick.

I taste it first without the sauce. The shrimp are impeccably cooked and melt in your mouth. I can’t identify the green leaf under the brick…and it doesn’t add much to the taste.

The brick is not too fatty as it happens too often.

But it’s the mayonnaise that does it all. It is light, fresh, spicy just right (there are chillies in it) and goes well with the shrimps. Once the dish is finished I will jealously keep the remaining mayonnaise to finish it with my bread.

For the dish I hesitated for a long time between the Iberian pork and the sea bass fished in the estuary. I haven’t been eating enough fish lately and the manager’s advice finally won me over: it will be the sea bass.

In appearance it is perfectly grilled.

I’m a little apprehensive because I’m not particularly good at pulling the filets. But the cooking is perfect, the flesh melts and everything goes well.

It was baked in a wood-fired oven to be at the exact limit between hot and raw. “Pink at the bone” as someone I know would say. I can safely say that it is a wild fish and not a farmed fish.

It is simple, fine, perfectly executed: a real delight.

On the other hand, as for the side dish, the noodle ceviche, it is a bit disappointing because it is oversold. This is, as the manager admits, more in reference to the way the noodles are cut than any form of seasoning. Good, but disappointing. It doesn’t add or detract anything from the dish actually.

For dessert it will be the apple crumble.

It’s very good and fine…but surprising. You can feel the apple in a yoghurt emulsion but who says crumble says, for me, cookie and there is no cookie there.

In the end, I prefer it like that because it’s so fine and light.

Come on, a coffee and the bill and it’s time to leave.

The service

The fact that I was the first customer in an empty room undoubtedly helped, but in general, you can feel people who listen to the customer, pay attention to him and want to bring him “more than food”. There is warmth, willingness to exchange…and in French please.

Simple, human and efficient. What more could you ask for?

The atmosphere at De La O

Some will like it, others will not, but the room is very bright and well lit. Personally, I can’t stand the fashion that nowadays, when you are modern and trendy, you make your customers dine in the dark! So a good point from my point of view.

In terms of music, it started with 80’s pop classics on guitar and ended with a jazz radio… Swiss. Totally acceptable sound level, again it’s just right.

Bottom line

In retrospect, De La O is undoubtedly my best meal in Seville if I take all the parameters into account.

It is at the same time simple, convivial, creative and more gastronomic at the limit than some who claim to be loud and clear.

And all for 37,40€!

For the moment, if I return to Seville, the De La O is a table where I will inevitably return.

Of my entire stay, this is where I feel I have better invested my money for a dinner.

Articles similaires

Ena by Carles Abellan Restaurant in Seville: tapas revisited in gourmet mode Orangier Restaurant – Desayunos & Tapas, Seville. Spain in a good-natured way San Fernando Restaurant Seville: good…but disappointing for fine dining Ö Restaurant, Tallinn Restaurant José Carlos Garcia, Malaga: Easily deserving of a second star Ribe Restaurant, Tallinn